Morocco’s Vanishing Cinemas

28 10 2011

Rialto , Casablanca

Walking by the the Cinema Boujloud in Fez is a sad experience for anyone who loves old movie houses. This once bustling cinema is closed and used for storage of market goods. The seating was still in place in the auditorium when seen in 2006. Cinema Boujaloud is symptomatic of the Moroccan cinema market which has been suffering a severe decline during the past years.

The rich heritage of Moroccan cinemas is endangered, but those who care about the future of film and their architectural value are working hard to save them, writes Derek Workman.

In 2007, Moroccan actor Tarik Mounim was in Tetouan waiting on a film set between takes. He was appearing in Goodbye Mothers,  Morocco’s entry for the 2009 Oscars in the Best Foreign Film Category - which tells the story of the Jewish exodus fromMorocco in the 1960s. While he waited for his scenes to be shot, he looked around the Art Deco cinema Cine Español, said to be the most beautiful inMorocco. He got to chatting with the owner, of the Español and two other cinemas in the city. It might seem pretty good, owning three cinemas, the owner told him, but it is a far cry from the twenty-five that his grandfather owned throughout the country.

“Speak to any older Moroccan and they will tell you that the cinema was a major part of their life,” Tarik says. “It was at the physical heart of a city or the neighbourhood, it was where people met and passed the time, it was where they learned about the world and heard new words. It was their encyclopaedia.”
Tarik had spent seven years studying to be an actor and working in theatre inParis, and had only recently returned toMorocco. As far as he was concerned, he was there to work, but he began to discover in just how parlous a state Moroccan cinema was; not just the production of movies, but the crumbling structures themselves, many of which had been built in the 1930s to 1950s at the height of the Art Deco period. (Miami is recognised as having some of the most beautiful art deco architecture in existence, but at it’s height it had only around five percent of art deco buildings that Casablanca had, many of the most beautiful of which were cinemas, and sadly, much of it now lost.)

“In it’s heyday, twenty-five distributors brought films fromFrance,Egypt,India,China, theUSA, andGreat Britain,” he says. “It is the only country in the world with cinemas that had the capacity to hold 1,500 people; the biggest could seat2,800. In the 1960s there were more than fifty million tickets sold a year, in 2010 there were only two million sold, and where once there were 280 cinemas operating throughout the country, now there are only thirty-seven, most of them showing movies from Bollywood.”

It’s the story of cinema worldwide, but where many countries replaced the neighbourhood movie houses with out-of-town multiplexes, this didn’t happen as much inMorocco, as the entrance price was simply prohibitive to most people.

There’s now a whole generation that has no idea what it’s like to visit a cinema, to enjoy the romance, the spectacle, the sense of wonder that the big screen brings. Now they sit at home watching a bootlegged DVD.

In 2008 Tarik and a group of friends formed Save Cinemas in Morocco (SCIM) in time for the International Film Festival of Marrakech, one of the biggest events devoted to Moroccan cinema. They convinced some of the actors, directors and other participants to wear their distinctive black T-shirt with its deep red logo, and people began to take notice. To encourage local interest they began showing old films in abandoned cinemas during the festival so that people in the Medina could see what it was like to visit the local ‘flicks’. Entrance was free, and they played to packed houses.

“The first film we showed was on original equipment from 1956 and it was wonderful, just like going to the movies decades ago – although some of the seats were a bit uncomfortable after so many years! Everyone had a great time, and each year during the festival we do the same. We even have people who are visiting the official festival coming to watch.”

Even though there are only thirty-seven cinemas still showing movies on a regular basis, there are one hundred and sixty still in existence throughout the country, although most are now falling into ruin. But it isn’t just the buildings themselves that is the problem; a lot of the seats and fitting are now missing, and it is increasingly difficult to find projectors and other equipment needed to restore a cinema to working order.

“We’re looking for help worldwide from people who can either help us with equipment or expertise,” says Tarik. “We did a presentation at the Cannes Film Festival this year, which went down really well, and we’ve been offered help by Unifrance, a French film association. We’ve still got a long way to go, though.”
Saving the architectural heritage of Art Deco is worthy in itself, but Save Cinemas in Morocco wants to go beyond that. Every cinema that is saved is a venue for a young film-maker to show his work. At a time when international producers are bringing fewer and fewer projects to Morocco, the Moroccan film industry is finding itself in almost as perilous a state as the cinemas it now no longer uses. Once hearts of the community, these could be a way of breathing life into the neighbour hood and give future Steven Spielbergs the chance to have their work flicker across the silver screen.

More info: http://www.savecinemasinmarocco.com/

Derek Workman is an English journalist living in Valencia City, Spain.

Thanks to http://riadzany.blogspot.com/ for this article





Jazz at Dar Batha…..Double Recharge

21 10 2011

David Bressat (Piano,) trio invites Eric Prost ( Saxaphone) to perform together at the French Institute’s cultural venue Dar Batha on Tuesday the 25th of October, ( 19h). The trio also includes Florent Nisse and Charles Clayette who have been together for the past 5 years.  The four promise a French repertoire by Dutronc, Nougaro, Brassons and Faure.

Jazz at Dar Batha

Wednesday 26th of October then presents the original compositions, improvisations and sagas of the young jazz band Makalapo from France with a Brazilian influence.

For more information http://www.institutfrancaisfes.com/





Ramsay Wood Talks @ ALIF/ALC

18 10 2011

Ramsay Wood

AUTHOR OF “KALILA & DIMNA: FABLES OF FRIENDSHIP AND BETRAYAL”

SPEAKS IN FES THIS THURSDAY

October 20 at 5 PM

ALC/ALIF, Room 1

All are welcome to attend

“These stories speak to and belong to the whole of humanity . . . . What Ramsay has done over the last thirty years is to have made the version for our time.”

London-based author, Ramsay Wood, will be speaking at the American Center/ALIF about his two extraordinary books that recount some of the world’s oldest stories about animals and also tell us about the human condition.

It took Wood six years to write Kalila and Dimna: Fables of Friendship and Betrayal, which became a world-wide phenomenon, and even longer to write the next volume, Kalila and Dimna: Fables of Conflict and Intrigue, which will be published in December.

The secular animal fables from India found in The Pancatantra and its Buddhist inspiration, The Jataka Tales, have travelled widely and had a major influence on world literature. These stories spawned equally famous classics in both Arabic and Persian. These fables migrated to Europe and by the 16th century existed in Spanish, Hebrew, Greek, Latin, Italian, French and English versions.

Ramsay Wood’s delightful retelling of The Pancatantra modernises the ancient fables and uses all the main versions from the Sanskrit to the Persian and Arabic and even the early English.

Wood is a renowned storyteller and has had a fascinating life. His talk will be entertaining as well as informative. Copies of his first volume will be available for sale and you can get them signed by the author.





International Fes Dance Festival *5

17 10 2011

From Tuesday the 18th of October to Saturday the 22nd Fez International Dance festival will be held at the Houriya Culture Complex in Fez’ ville nouvelle. With an international program all events commence at 7p.m. For those with a participatory interest there are workshops every morning at 10 am. Check out the relevant exhibition in the same complex.





Cafe Tissardmine – Inspiration on the edge.

11 10 2011

Last weekend Culture Vultures met with inspiring UK born, Australian artist Karen Hadfield who was visiting Fez to promote her new venture for artists and travelers on the edge of the sahara desert. Café Tissardmine is an arts house/guesthouse, between Rissani and Erfoud.

Karen Hadfield

In may 2010 Karen bought a a run down but beautifully boned traditional Moroccan desert building in the Saharan village of Tissardmine, located on the edge of the giant sand dune Erg Chebbi. A year or so later Karen is now up and running and offering writers retreats run by high caliber, published writers. The next writers’ retreats are on December 11 – 14 with Judy Pascoe and January 22 – 26 with Lisa Evans.

cafe tissardmine

Café Tissardmine also offers artists studio spaces and accommodation with full board. If you feel left out as a non-artist fear not, Karen and her Saharan colleagues welcome you to stay with them in at the oasis, enjoy the incredible scenery, absorb the tranquility and be inspired all the same.

For more information, bookings or enquiries see http://www.cafetissardmine.com





Hidden Waters – A film on the waters of Fez

10 10 2011

A documentary project inFezby Joe Lukawski

photo by Omar Chennafi

Why Water? Because it is humanity’s most vital resource. Period.

Why Fez? The advancement of clean-water technologies and sustainable practices in urban planning and design surrounding water have recently emphasized Morocco, and Fez in particular, as a site where new urban solutions can yield significant socio-economic benefits. Its current location chosen by Moulay Idriss II for the river running through, Fez has been celebrated for its history with water – its ornately tiled fountains, the nearby spas at Moulay Yacoub and Sidi Harazem, and the sounds of water coursing through medieval underground channels at night.

Today, however, the river suffers from pollution. The historic water system is in disrepair, damaging Fez’s buildings as the damp rises. Tales of homes collapsing, in part due to excessive moisture, feature regularly in the Moroccan press. In a crowded cityscape, the poor state of a rare resource’s infrastructure has major socio-economic ramifications. State-supplied water is now expensive for many, and the cost is rising alonside the threat to Fez’s urban heritage. This film will explore the role of water in Fez’s urban tradition and the problems with disrepair and access to clean water that many medina inhabitants face everyday. It will also follow international and local actors as they conceive of aFez where the river once again flows clear.

The film – Les Eaux Cachées will combine an ethnographic-leaning documentary approach with the creativity and aesthetics of Fez‘s over 1200 year history. We will be consulting Fassi photographer Omar Chennafi throughout the production to capture the essence of Fez in filming urban scenes and in a new approach to historical re-enactment. The film will not only speak to experts and expats (who have become keen on restoring old houses), but to the people of Fez, all of whom have stories to share, and some of whom have decades of experience in dealing with the waters of Fez.

To contribute, contact and or find out more go to  http://www.kickstarter.com/projects/joelukawski/hidden-waters-a-film-on-the-water

 





Arab Art as an Early Indicator of Revolution

8 10 2011

MARRAKESH,MOROCCO— Newly deposed Arab dictators might have been well advised to have paid attention to the works of their home-grown artists more closely: Many visualized the revolutions in their countries long before they happened.

Take the photograph by the Moroccan Hicham Benohoud, one of the pieces by dozens of artists shown at this year’s Marrakech Art Fair, which was held from Sept. 30 to Oct. 3: It shows a child physically tied to his environment, and it speaks with contempt for the country’s social inequalities.

Hicham Daoudi

For the fair’s organizers, there could not be a better moment to display these works as the world is watching the region, and showing a particular interest in the art being created here.

According to Brahim Alaoui, who curated one of the fair’s shows, “Images Affranchies” (Liberated Images), current events caught up with the works of the 18 artists shown in the photography and video exhibition. While freeing themselves from traditional formats, the artists have managed to break taboos to show the simmering discontent that led to explosion, while at the same time expressing a craving for personal freedom.

“Many of these artists have tried to convey messages, ideas that converge toward the demands of people across the Arab world: freedom of speech, social justice and emancipation,” said Mr. Alaoui. “The general context eventually proved them right.”

The works on show reflect the adamant demands by protesters across the region that led to the toppling of leaders inEgypt,TunisiaandLibya, showing the discontent and desperation in countries crippled by corruption and injustice. They also position these artists, whose desire for freedom was strongly reflected in their works, as visionaries of the changes these countries were to undergo.

The Moroccan artist Mohammed El Baz, whose complex installations combine sculpture, video, light and photography, said his works were an attempt “to build a space of possibilities to heal the incurable.”

Viewing them, they represent an endless search for a solution to a grim fate. In his previous works, he also imagined bodies caught on fire long before theTunisian streetvendor Mohamed Bouazizi immolated himself.

The Egyptian photographer Moataz Nasr tells the story of his country’s people through a series of poignant pictures, among them, photos of “Eish,” the flat bread that is so vital to the Egyptian people.

The Tunisian artist Faten Chouba Skhiri says that even the arts were politicized under former President Zine el-Abidine Ben Ali: For years, the state regulated the arts and decided what artists should produce. Now, the revolution has energized artists, while also giving them hope and newly acquired freedom that they are still learning to work with.

“The revolution is not over yet,” she said. “The real fear is that the revolution fails. We are in a transitional period and we are still digesting extremely intense changes. There is a very strong need for structures to encourage artists. We don’t even have an art museum to see the evolution of our art.”

Giving visibility to the artists was one of the main accomplishments of the Marrakech Art Fair, being held for the second time. About 48 galleries were invited, attracting buyers, such as the prestigiousPompidouCenterinParis, interested in this new generation of contemporary artists.

The French heiress Elisabeth Bauchet-Bouhlal, who inherited the Es Saadi Palace that hosted the fair and considers the country her home, has also helped to finance it. She says she is a lifelong believer in the promotion of artists and insists that collectors should fully realize how much they could help local artists by buying their pieces instead of shopping for art abroad.

People in the Arab world “are starting to understand that interesting things are happening in their own countries,” she said. “They are realizing that they can find fine pieces of art here without having to go abroad. It is great to start having a Tunisian presence in art fairs. And since the revolution, slowly more collectors are starting to pay attention to what our artists are producing.”

Some say that while the artists are getting more exposure, the Arab Spring is only the bud waiting to bloom.

“Before expecting foreign art collectors to buy the works of our artists, it’s extremely important that we encourage them locally,” said Lilia Ben Salah, owner of the gallery Al Marsa in Tunis, standing in front of a photograph of street graffiti of scrawled messages of freedom taken by Rym Karoui during the Tunisian revolution.

 

Thanks to http://www.nytimes.com

 








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